PETER BUCKINGHAM EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

The first time I met him I was on a Conde Nast shoot and he struck me as not being your typical fashion photographer: let’s pass on the fact that he is young and handsome, he is also massively talented but really down to earth and kind. The most intense moment I had in his company was when he helped me take suitcases back to the hotel room after the shoot: the lift stopped under the weight of all the luggage and I found myself stuck under his most incredible laser-blue eyes... That’s when you absolutely resent having a big annoying schoolgirl crush, really. I remember lowering my head and saying ‘ok...’, just to say something that would sound in the silence. He smiled and answered ‘what, are you claustrophobic?’... Well, I don’t like being stuck in a lift but really, it depends on the circumstances, doesn’t it?
Anyway. Here it goes, the interview of the mysterious Peter Buckingham, half-British, half-American, vibrant and up and coming New York fashion photographer who already shot for almost everybody from the New York Times to America’s Next Top Model.

Why do you think Richard Phillips’ ‘Shaking’ had such an effect on you?
... I would say it was because of the impact of such a large image. A portrait. But so big and powerful, and in a way I strived to recreate that feeling.

Which photographers do you admire?
Helmut Newton.

What advice would you give young photographers looking to get into the industry?
Where to begin? There is tons of advice to give. If I had to say one thing it would be don’t get too overwhelmed by the tech side of photography. Concentrate on the creative side of it, and make sure your photos always have some sort of meaning.

What’s been your best and worst experience on a shoot?
I try not to remember bad experiences, but I guess the worst experience I can have on a shoot is when I don’t know what I want to do, when things don’t come together. The best on the contrary is when everything happens magically and I have a great time.

What inspires you at the moment?
Inspiration comes from a lot of different sources, and it comes from within. I want images to look very real and have some character.

Is your passion for sailing a specific source of inspiration?
I don’t know if it’s a source of inspiration. It’s definitely part of who I am, as is photography. It’s part of my aesthetic in that it’s graceful...

How would you define your aesthetic then?
I don’t want to sound too traditional so I would say what it’s not. I don’t like photography to be tacky or trying too hard, or over the top for no reason. It’s like what I enjoy about sailing compared to other forms of boating. When you see these people on big yachts, it’s often more about showing your wealth than it is about the pleasure of boating. My photography is like my sailing: it is not about what the boat is, it is about what it represents. It’s not about the affluence, it is about what it meant to sail with my family, it is about the sailing community, it’s about sporting and playing.

How do you think it reflects in your photos that you are half British, half American?
[laughing] I don’t know... They're half cold, half fat? I would say British people are quite conservative and very polite, and Americans are bold and do whatever they want... Maybe my photos are a mix of that.

Who would you like to photograph but haven’t?
Actresses.

Models?
Kate Moss maybe, five years ago. She’s getting tired now.

There are no men in your photos. Is it a choice?
Women look better in the camera. I prefer shooting women. I like going back to the style of photos of Richard Phillips. He made women iconic. I don’t feel like men can be iconic in the same way in front of the camera. I don’t admire men... maybe a few, but not in the fashion world. If I had to shoot men I would shoot actors, with charisma, with a degree of theatricality.

Who is your style icon?
You know, I never looked at anybody for style. I look at lots of things for style, but I create my own. I don’t follow after anyone; I don’t lock into one person or one thing. Sometimes I like to listen to Elvis but I would get bored if I only ever listened to him.

What in your mind was the best fashion picture ever taken?
At the moment, something by Helmut Newton. His pictures were modern for what they were. They were doing more than just being a photo: it was not just about a pretty girl in a pretty outfit, it was about having fun with it all.

But then Richard Phillips is a big source of inspiration for you, and a lot of his works seem to unveil the shallowness behind the appearance of these glamour girls. And some of your earlier work does recall this perspective, I’m thinking about this fashion story where a girl is lying on the table, and the image is really strong, with a model who looks beautiful but somewhat empty.
[oh my god, did I blush on the phone, that was really inappropriate and badly formulated]
Well it was a good story... I do think serious fashion can get silly. I guess it wasn’t totally intentional. Now I want more from my model personality wise. The personality I work on now is more intentional. I don’t like when a model just sits there, looks pretty and doesn’t know who she is.

Having shot for everyone from Interview to the New York Times, which other magazines do you think showcase the best fashion photography?
Paris Vogue and W.

What do you think of the fashion vs advertising photography debate?
Is it still on? I think advertising fashion photography used to be better. But the bottom line in advertising gets stronger and stronger and photography gets lost. But there is still a big difference between ad campaigns for these big fashion warehouses with lots of money like H&M and a campaign for Chanel.

http://www.peterbuckingham.com/

A BIG THANK YOU PETER!