Tuesday 24 June 2008

Italian Vogue is the New Black, by Kimberley Aparisio




Italian Vogue, the most artsy and baroque of Vogues, famous for its theatrical shoots, 18th century colours, golden make-up and rich staging, seems to be taking things up a sexy, upbeat notch this summer.

The next issue, which will hit the newstands on July 26th, features only black models throughout, which is quite a move, since middle-class Italy is known for being a bit racist, and the fashion industry is missing women of colour like the deserts miss the rain, with designers using very few black models on runways.

As a New York fashion girl, I think this issue is pretty exciting. How will Italian girls feel about seeing Toccara from America's Next Top Model on the pages of their fashion Bible? I'm not so sure, but maybe they'll start adding Jay-Z to their iPods. Well, we can only hope. For people who like their fashion served up a certain way, there is definitely a stark contrast between the starched, perfect hauteur of Italian Vogue and the image of Naomi "one sandwich short of a picnic" Campbell reclining serenely on a chaise longue, when we all know she was clawing at a police officer not long ago. For any of those familiar with Miss Tyra, she doesn't have the most sedate image either (flashback to the three ring circus that is ANTM). Still, whatever reservations and prejudices one might have, Steven Meisel's photography and the models are simply breathtaking.

In the issue, Steven Meisel remarks "I have asked my advertising clients so many times, 'Can we use a black girl?' They say no." With the majority of consumers being white, they're seen as less likely to buy the product; he said, "It all comes down to money."

How depressing. Advertisers are basically saying that fashion is aspirant, and it is not desirable to be anything other than white, slender and blonde with wide blue eyes. Let's think about that. I will never look like Gisele Bundchen, but it doesn't stop me from shopping!

Anyhow, I've had the misfortune of reading some ill-thought out opinions about the issue being divisive and even condescending. Yes, fashion can be racist. Nevertheless, the world is changing; Vanity Fair's Africa issue came out recently, and Obama may become leader of the free world. Franca Sozzani, editor of Vogue Italia, has captured the zeitgeist. Hopefully, Anna Wintour will follow in Sozzani's Louboutins.
The preview shots look amazing, so be sure I'll elbow you right out of the way to get my copy on Thursday.

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